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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the owners completely surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.